Saturday, November 17, 2007




Enchanting Madayippara...

Text and pictures: A K Varun

Legends and history permeate Madayippara, an extended laterite hillock not far from Ezhimala that face the sea. Located on the northern side of Kerala’s Kannur district, this hillock is a synonym of peace and tranquility and it offers a soothing effect to the mind of any visitor. For an outsider, this Plateau with its shrines and remnants of historical ruins still gives off a sense of exotic feel.

It was on a rainy morning I had landed at Madayippara. The train had to cross a mighty river before reaching Pazhayangadi station. There was torrential rain outside. I had to take extreme care in the case of my camera while alighting from the train as any diversion in my attention may permit the rains to mindlessly damage it. The rains may have affected the number of passengers at the station. Not much hassle and bustle. There is not even the presence of the `chai wallah.’
A long umbrella was with me to fight the rain while capturing the entire beauty of Madayippara using the camera. There was a gigantic banyan tree just outside the railway station. Its branches and roots have created a green canopy to sit and relax. Somebody may have trimmed the branches of the tree as if moved by a wrong aesthetic concept. After all, what is the need of trimming a banyan?
The bus stop is located in the shadow of the tree. I had waited in vain for a bus to reach Madayppara for quite sometime. But there was no bus to take me there. At last, I found an autorickshaw.
``Where are you going?’ asked the driver.
``To Madayippara,’’ I replied.
The auto started meandering through the road that passing through difficult terrains.
``Look there. Are you seeing a hillock there? That is the Madayippara,’’ said an enthusiastic Nirosha, who accompanied me.
Nirosha is presently doing research work on Madayippara. Her research topics include its ecology, culture and history. So she knows every nook and corner of the hillock.
``It would take at least three kilometers to reach the hillock. To which portion of the hillock are you proceeding?’’ the auto driver asked. His Malayalam had a Kannur accent.
``Drop us near Madayikkavu,’’ Nirosha said again with enthusiasm. The vehicle left Pazhayangadi town and started climbing the heights. The terrain is difficult. The driver was taking extreme pain to pass through the country road.
Finally, the auto reached Government Guest House on top of the hillock.
``Okay. This is the place,’’ said Nirosha as if showing the red signal. The auto had gone away after I had paid the rent.
``Look. Herman Gundert had prepared his famous Malayalam dictionary by staying inside this ancient structure. He was here for a long time,’’ she said again. Then I had a detailed look over the guest house, which looks so old.
The vast expanses of the hillock start just behind the guest house. A panoramic view of Ezhimala that extending to the sea is also available from there. The sea is providing a rich background and on top of it a bunch of eagles were performing an air show. Big trees on top of Madayippara are providing nesting space for all the eagles.
The scenes have started thrilling my mind. Will it be possible for my 10-20 camera to capture all the rich varieties of the hill. Slowly,I have taken my camera outside. After adding the wide lens to camera body, I have started looking Madayippara through the lens. The view finder had started providing me dream snaps. With the opening and closing of each shutter, the dream frames have started turning into realities. The back screen of the camera has also started enthralling me with the beauty and vibrancy of each frame.
Nirosha told me to spend some time at Madayikkavu capturing its beauty. There is a gigantic pond in the close proximity of Madayikkavu. No cruel summer can dry up this pond. In the rich canvas of Madayippara, not only the hillock but also the sky, sea and this pond are providing new aesthetic sensibilities. The pond was calm and its placid waters were crystal clear. I had broken the silence of the waters by fetching a handful of water. It was very cool. Vibrations have started appeared in the waters due to my interference.
There is a small `kavu’ on the other side of the pond. Its reflections are now floating across the small waves of the pond. There were a number of plants and flowers on the vicinity of the pond. As if a botanist, Nirosha started saying the scientific names of most of the plants within a few moments. Though I had failed to follow all those scientific names, the one which made an impression in my mind was `Droseera Indica.’ Though it is a nice name, the plant is a predator which attracts small flies and creatures and uses them to satiate hunger.
I had wasted a lot of time in front of a Droseera to see its skill in attracting and eating flies. But the plant failed to attract any small creature.
Nirosha advised me to go to the western side of Madayippara, where Vadukunta temple is located. ``there is a butterfly sanctuary there,’’ she said.
``Butterfly sanctuary? Really?’’ I exclaimed.
`` Yaa. It is indeed a butterfly sanctuary. Because of the large presence of butterflies, environmental groups working in the area have named that area as butterfly sanctuary,’’ said Nirosha.
``You can see as many as 117 varieties of butterfly there. More than double of butterfly varieties available in the parks of Britain and Germany,’’ she added. It took about one hour walk to reach the butterfly sanctuary.
This rocky terrain would not make you tired whether it is rain or shine. The vibrant scenes would dilute the pains of body. Suddenly, I heard the sound of a rare bird.
``Don’t afraid. It is Chenganny Thithiri,’’ she explained.
``What it is actually?’’
``It is the colloquial name of that rare bird. Its sound is different,’’ she said. I had decided to chase that bird. I had started attempts to take its snaps by hiding behind a big rock. The bird with a red eye was walking through the greeny portions of the hillock. As soon as I started focussing the camera, Chenganny started moving from one rock to the other. Saying goodbye to Chenganny, I have continued my walk in search of the butterfly sanctuary.
There were plenty of plants with fully bloomed flowers on the rocks as if heralding the arrival of Kerala’s national festival Onam. Madayippara is in fact a rich flower carpet. Different flowers are blooming here during each season.
On the way, there was another pond with placid waters. It was reflecting the dark clouds in the sky. When I unfolded my big umbrella close to the pond which reflecting the dark clouds, there is one frame. An excellent frame. The frame in which a sky fell into a pond and a country made umbrella on its side. I had wasted not even a single moment to click it.
``This picture has two dimensions. It would be difficult to distinguish between a pond and a sky,’’ she responded.
The journey continued again. Now, we can see the Arabian Sea in close quarters. On the northern side of the hillock, Pazhayangadi River is quite flowing. There are small boats in the river. The bridge across the river is now carrying a train that providing me a wide shot. The visuals here are reflective of shots in Mani Ratnam films.
The rains have started. My camera failed miserably in carain’s fury. Finally, the walk ended at the butterflies’ park. It was indeed a different experience. I was really astonished while seeing different species of butterflies. They had different shades and colours. They had different moods and emotions. Each one of them was challenging my capability as a photographer. Each one is rare and exceptional. How can I show favouritism with any one of them?
Finally, I started capturing their moments in my camera. Some of them failed me. But some others have provided new aesthetic sense to my shots. Finally, I had chased a yellow butterfly which ultimately posed for me. A close up frame.
I had spent a few minutes in the company of butterflies keeping the camera bag and umbrella aside. A small meditation. Now, the butterflies have started a conversation with me. I have closed my eyes. In the depth of my soul, I had experienced the whisperings of the butterflies.
Sun light has started making a variety of pictures in between the intermittent rains. How can I capture all these images? No camera can capture the entire mood and tone of Madayippara. You can experience it while being in these hillocks. You should open up your mind and mood for such a everlasting feeling.
The rain was heavy as soon as I completed the photography expedition. Finally, I bid goodbye to the hillock with a wet body and mind. There was a magnetic power that told me not to go away from this paradise on earth. But I had to go.
``Will you comback again,’’ Madayippara asked me. ``Definitely, I will. I would come during Onam season when the hillock is turning an ocean blue due to the presence of Krishna flowers,’’ I replied.
The train from Pazhayangadi station took me back to the outer world. While traveling in train, there were distant views of Madayippara. It is soaked fully in rain. While looking at Madayippara through the windows of the train, a monosoon season unflded before me with a high decibel thunder. Rains have started preventing all the visuals outside.

Ends….

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