Saturday, November 17, 2007

Thusharagiri -the lone hillock


Text and pictures: A K Varun.




It was a day of respite from the heavy rains that lashed Thusharagiri hills since the outbreak of this monsoon. The distance from Kozhikode city to the famous Thusharagiri falls is of about 51 km. I had to pass through different landscapes that include hills, mountains, streams, rivers and rice fields. Journalism student Subin is accompanying me in this journey. Dearest friend Najeeb, who actually belongs to the same place, is my guide.
>The time was 8.30 in the morning. The tourism information centre close to the water fall seemed empty. The staffers were in deep morning slumber. However, they smelled the arrival of visitors instantly and appeared before us in blue uniforms.
``We are three and two still cameras are with us,’’ Subin said.
``The entry fee per person is Rs 10. You have to pay Rs 15 for each camera,’’ the man at cash counter said. ``You should also write your name and address in this register,’’ he added.
The `security clearance’ had lasted for a few minutes. Then there was a small trek to reach the water falls. On the way, there were small streams with crystal clear water. It seemed tastier when I gulped a handful of water.
``There are three waterfalls here. The first is easily approachable by all. A steep climb is inevitable to see the second one. Don’t go to the third one as the climbing of the rocks would not be easy. The rocks are slippery,’’ warned the accompanying security officer.
``If so, I wish to see the third one,’’ the adventurous Subin declared. Najeeb also extended solidarity with him. Then I had no option. I had also agreed to go along with them to the third fall with a little fear in mind.
The first fall had a frightening appearance because of the monsoon. The mighty rocks below are resisting these fierce streams and as a result rich sprays of water are vetting the entire ambiance. I had a plan to move very closely to the streams to take some beautiful pictures. But Najeeb prevented me.
``Don’t go there. See it from a distance. Unexpected down pours in the thick of the forests would double the waters in the stream at any time during monsoon. So it is risky,’’ he said. Subin was taking snaps unmindful of Najeeb’s advice. Somehow, Najeeb convinced him of the risk.
On the other side of the stream, it is dense forest. Yet another stream is flowing across that forest.


On reaching the other side of the first stream, I noticed a huge tree. It looked gigantic but its inside seemed hollow. The `hollow’ tree is still retaining its life. That is the wonder. We three had sneaked into the hollowness of the tree. The inside view of the tree was as if in a cave. It was very cold inside the tree.
The journey to reach other two waterfalls seemed long. The wild path was steep and slippery. Finally, I found the sign board leading to the second water fall. There were large expanses of solid rock in my vicinity. A stream was flowing across the solid rocks. The stream was mighty but it was unavoidable for me and my friends to walk across the stream.
The small streams of Thusharagiri are adorning a marvelous look in this spot. They turn enchanting and vibrant. The camera had no rest for quite a long time as the vibrancy of the scenes had put a challenge to it. Subin’s camera was also in the same spirit. Only Najeeb seemed an outsider. He was taking rest by laying himself on a rock. After finishing the camera works, I had also taken a small nap on the rocks.
Finally, my encounter with the last waterfall began. It was indeed a Herculean task. There was a steep climb through the dense forests. The forests have already immersed in darkness due to the change in climate. No ray of sun inside the thick bushes. The clouds were about to burst. Crickets were making the creaking sounds more loudly. On occasions, we had gasped for breath. The path ahead was getting more and more narrow. I have covered my camera with a towel and kept it close to my body to protect it from the rough climate.

Though the surroundings have immersed in darkness, the time was just 11.30 in the morning. The network reach of mobile phone had also a hide and seek game. The great canopy of the forests was preventing views of the sky above. There was no visibility of the path ahead. A return also would not be easy. There are heights after heights to climb. It was too difficult for me to climb the heights without damaging the camera.
Finally, all of us have decided to sit and relax for some time. However, the relaxing failed to continue for long. There were foot marks and dung of elephants in that area. There were bamboo breaks all over the area. Bamboo reeds are a favorite delicacy for elephants. My hands and legs have started shivering. Even in the extreme cold of Thusharagiri, I was sweating. I was feeling the presence of a wild tusker in the close vicinity. There was no mobile network. Nobody had any clue of an imminent escape. We have started probing a way out in the under vegetation. The hope of seeing the waterfall has eclipsed.

In the meantime, I have heard the voice of a waterfall. The sounds were emanating from an area filled with bamboo reeds. The foots have started moving voluntarily towards the origin of the sound. There was a huge valley closeby. Through the valley, the water is falling down to the rocks. It was a magnificent view. An exceptional waterfall indeed. All of us have immersed in the beauty of that waterfall setting aside the fear of elephants and the bad experiences of the journey.
A mist had started engulfing the entire area. A coll breeze was blowing around. The hillocks have worn green coverings. Trees with leafs of different shades and colours. Rare birds which flying across the area like flights.
Taking pictures is a difficult task. The valley close by has deep and unseen deaths. The rock on which I was standing was slippery. Subin and Najeeb had kept me in a tight hold.
``Take the photographs boldly now on, ‘’ they said. Then I started taking snaps of the majestic fall with a little bit of courage. Enough pictures. Even a passing glipse to the frightening valley would danger me. Is there anybody who filmed these views from this same place?
``Nobody,’’ I said to myself. The main reason is that there is no straight path to reach here. It would be difficult for even us to climb again here after a return to the mainland.
Subin was not able to take all these pictures. Instead, he satisfied his photography thirsts by capturing my adventures on the slippery rocks close to the valley. Without moving an inch from a particular point, I had taken 36 pictures.
The return journey was also tough. Risking life, all of us went across bushes and jungles without knowing even the direction. Long hours in a jungle which was engulfed in darkness.
Finally, the search ended in regaining the lost path. It took about four hours to reach the base point. One more risky journey ended. Also a rare experience of going inside the depth of a jungle. The memories are still lingering in my mind.

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